Etosha is a 22 750km² wildlife sanctuary in Namibia – one of Africa’s most stable and accessible countries. Etosha, meaning ‘place of dry water’, and refers to a flat calcrete depression (or pan) of about 5 000km². The ‘Pan’ (overlooked by the Onguma Reserve) provides a great, parched, silver-white backdrop of shimmering mirages to an area of semi-arid savannah grassland and thorn scrub. The pan itself contains water only after very good rains and sometimes for only a few days each year, but is enough to stimulate the growth of a blue-green algae which lures thousands of flamingos. Here are close on 114 species of mammal in Etosha. They include the black-faced impala – there are no southern impala in the park – and the threatened black and white rhino. There are however no buffalo, hippo, crocodile or monkeys, but there is enough to keep you enthralled on a game drive.